Ed Smith author & cricket selector
Bespoke tailor in London, Sussex & Kent
Soft, light tailoring, established in London in 2003. Suits, coats, dinner jackets, trousers and shirts, bespoke or made to measure, at the King’s Road studio or wherever suits you. Tailoring appointments are also available on Savile Row.
About
Jonathan’s father was a cutter in Dublin, and brought him to work as a boy. “It wasn’t training, it was just early exposure.”
He later trained with Thomas Mahon, former cutter to King Charles III, who “made me aware of the importance of precision, procedure and detail”, and on Mahon’s reference joined Airey & Wheeler of Savile Row. The house’s focus on lightweight clothing suited his soft tailoring: deconstructed featherweight blazers, safari jackets, patch-pocket shirts and one-piece collars. “It opened up the world of cloth’s colour, composition and construction.”
House Style
To develop a house style, you must make in-house. After his training, Jonathan opened his first shop in the West End, with in-house tailors and, later, apprentices.
Two houses shaped the look. Soft tailoring, learned under Thomas Mahon and reminiscent of Anderson & Sheppard, gave it a soft shoulder and a lightly padded chest. Airey & Wheeler, lightweight and tropical specialists established in 1883, brought a deeper understanding of cloth and how lightly a garment can be structured. Plain weaves breathe in humidity, and rain beads and rolls off them.
Together they became something of his own: soft and light, with a natural, modern line. Relaxed and elegant, and very comfortable to wear.
The Studio
The King’s Road studio carries bespoke and made-to-measure samples to try on, to help you picture the finished garment, with a full selection of cloths, linings and buttons. Jonathan chooses the trims himself.
Craft & Cloth
Suits made in London’s West End carry a provenance associated with the very best of British craftsmanship. The W1 label in every bespoke garment records it.
“As a tailor examining cloth daily I have become well trained in tuning out cloths that don’t impress me. This helps me be independent in my taste.”
“I have had pointed out to me that I’m not easily impressed. Perhaps this is part of what can make a good craftsman.” As featured in The Fitzrovia Journal
Understated Elegance
“When you meet someone, you look them up and down, and everyone does it. But when we do it, that’s the natural line of the body we’re looking at, and what you put on top of it influences how people see you.”
“It’s the combination of the person’s personality, the function the suit’s going to have and the carefully selected cloth. When we combine these three elements, we can build something that has great value, a great design sensibility and integrity.”
Testimonials